Every week we talk to homeowners who are trying to decide whether to build a fence themselves or hire it out. There's nothing wrong with wanting to try it — a basic fence isn't rocket science. But there's a real difference between the steps on paper and getting a fence that's still standing straight in ten years.
Here's the honest, step-by-step process, including the parts that trip most DIYers up.
Before anything else, know exactly where your property line is. A survey or plat map is the only way to be sure — pacing it off from a neighbor's fence or a guess based on old landscaping is how property line disputes start. If you don't have a survey, your county property records office can usually point you to one on file.
Call Kentucky 811 (or Indiana 811 across the river) at least a few business days before you plan to dig. They'll mark underground gas, electric, water, and cable lines for free. Skipping this step is how people end up with an expensive, dangerous mistake.
HOAs often have their own height, material, and setback rules for fences. Sort this out before you buy materials — reworking a fence that violates an HOA rule is expensive and avoidable.
Measure your fence line, decide on height and material, and calculate post spacing (typically 6-8 feet apart for wood). Run a string line between your end points before you dig a single hole — it keeps every post hole in line and saves you from a fence that wanders off course over a long run. This is also the point to decide on gate locations — plan for at least one gate wide enough for lawn equipment.
Post setting is where almost every DIY fence goes wrong. A post that's slightly out of plumb doesn't look like a problem on day one — but six months later, when the rest of the fence is hung off it, that lean is obvious and there's no fixing it without pulling the post. Take the extra ten minutes per post to get it plumb before the concrete sets.
Once the posts are set, run a string line along the tops from end to end. That string is what tells you how to step or rack each section down a slope so the top of the fence follows the terrain evenly instead of looking uneven or jagged once the rails and pickets go on.
Attach horizontal rails between the posts — typically two or three per section depending on fence height. This is the structural frame that the pickets or panels attach to, so it needs to be level and securely fastened.
With the frame up, this is the most visible — and most time-consuming — part of the job. Use a spacer block to keep gaps consistent, and check for plumb every few boards so small errors don't compound down the fence line.
Gates take the most stress of anything on the fence since they're the only moving part, so use stronger posts at the gate — sized up from your standard line posts — to keep the opening from sagging over time. A sagging gate almost always means the hinge post wasn't sized or set deep enough.
Pressure-treated wood needs to dry out for a few months before stain will penetrate properly. Cedar can be stained almost right away. Either way, staining protects the wood and is far cheaper than replacing boards down the road — see our post on why staining matters.
If you're weighing DIY against hiring it out, our fence cost guide breaks down what professional installation actually runs by material.
Ruth Fence and Deck installs fences throughout Louisville KY and Southern Indiana. Family-owned, licensed & insured, 15 years experience, free estimates.
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